Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Honduras Day 2 - Exhaustion Takes Over

Once we landed at the airport in San Pedro Sula, we go through the customs line and then to claim our baggage. Last year some bags didn't make it, but this year they all did. Thank goodness, because I doubt the airline would have gotten a cab to drive the bags five hours into the mountains again! Once you get your bag, you go through a security checkpoint, then pass by the car rental agencies and through to the main terminal. There are dozens and dozens of people waiting for family and such right past the doors, so making your way through the throng to the wide open end of the terminal is very refreshing. Two people stayed behind to rent the cars - one busito (a minivan), and an SUV. The rental agency didn't have the busito, which we had reserved weeks ago. Okay, fine, we got that through another agency. Then they had the SUV, but no battery. They ordered the battery from San Pedro Sula proper. Welcome to Honduras! The battery actually arrived on time, continuing our streak of good luck, and then it was installed. Meanwhile, the rest of us either exchanged our money with the money exchange guys that wander around the airport, or got cash out of the ATM. About an hour and a half after we got there, we were off to Lepaera, leaving the airport behind!


The trip to Lepaera involves skirting around San Pedro Sula proper, since it can be a dangerous city, especially for a bunch of gringos. Then off to the mountains. We pass around the outskirts of Santa Rosa de Copan, as well as through any number of smaller villages. Stopping for gas once, we finally arrive, in the dark, hungry and tired.

The incredibly generous family that hosts us had dinner already prepared. First we feasted, then we figured out sleeping arrangements while enjoying a few Salva Vidas. Salva Vida is my favorite Honduran beer, a slightly (very slightly) dark, hoppy lager. Also, the name means "life saver," so that amuses me to no end.

Here is a delicious batch of beans. The beans there are cooked with onions and garlic, and probably some spices that have yet to be divulged to me. They are pureed and fairly liquidy, much more so than typical refried beans. They are absolutely amazing. I made a batch of beans yesterday that is my closest attempt, so far, at replicating them.

You can top your beans with chismol, which is in the container at the top of the picture. It is basically a pico de gallo. Fresh tomatoes, onions, and cilantro living in harmony. The lower container has a crumbly, salty cow's milk cheese that is pretty close to cotija.


Honduran corn tortillas are smaller and thicker than the corn tortillas we see in the States. They are about 4-5 inches in diameter and about 1/4 inch thick. I like to make little tacos, with a tortilla, some beans, cheese, and chismol. Then I sop up any leftover beans with more tortillas! Some families make tortillas at home, but our host family just purchases them freshly made from the market, which is understandable, since making tortillas is a daunting task, especially if you're feeding a baker's dozen gringos!

Lastly, there was carne asada for the meat eaters in the group. Carne asada isn't included in the plato tipico that you might order in a restaurant or be served on an average day in a Honduran home. It's generally served more for special occasions. I hear tell it's delicious!
For reference, a plato tipico is the basic meal. It includes tortillas, beans, and various other things such as avocado, tajadas, plantains, crema (mantequilla), fried egg, cheese, chicken, rice, and so on.

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